Getting to Zhangye, Gansu Province

Journey update: .. Taiwan > Hong Kong > Beijing > Harbin > Yanji > Songjianghe >Changbai Mountain > Dandong > Dalian > Dandong > Chengde > Beijing > Datong > Hohhot > Huitengxile > Hohhot > Taiyuan > Zhengzhou > Xi'an > Lanzhou > Zhangye ....

We took the overnight train from Xi'an, booked on hard-seats. Be prepared for a rough night! We wanted to upgrade to sleepers once we were on the train but that proved to be impossible, after I was man-handled by pushing crowds and men with stinking breath shouting "Mayo" at me. So instead of sleeping, we spent a long 10 hours sitting upright occasionally head flopping down when the tirdness kicked in too strong. Oh and an annoying child that liked to scream, well, screamed all night. Git.

Once in Lanzhou, we were hoping to get a train/bus ticket straight out of there. We got off the train at about 7:30am and made our way to the ticket office. That's where things started to unravel. We both were trying to get over bouts of diarrhea that seemably crept up out of nowhere and attacked during the night, and didn't have the energy to face the crowds in the queues for tickets. I had a few horrid moments, waiting for Kate to return from the toilet, when suddenly on more than one occasion, I'd get waves of diarrhea. Looking after the bags and a long distance from the toilet I actually considered dropping my trousers there and then and releasing in a plastic bag. Luckily I didn't have to , but it was too close!

After a futile 5 hours going to the bus stations, we came back to where we started and I managed to find two sleeper beds on a train to Zhangye for 9:30 next morning!

We spent the night in a crap, old hotel near the station and got to bed. The next day we got on the train and tried to settle down for another 10 hour ride.

A "birds eye view" of Zhangye with elevation, showing the Hexi Corridor


In Zhangye we found a cheap double room, Y40, and looked around town. Anciently named Ganzhou, Zhangye was a famous commercial port on the Silk Road and one of the biggest international trade markets in the country. The reason we came here was to start our journey along the silk road and to see China's largest reclining Buddha. We've been here 6 days now. I got to sneak in to the temple the other day for free (admission is ridiculously high for what there is to see - Y41) and was disappointed at the bloddy scaffolding and rennovations that haven't been touched and are covered in thick dust.

Inside the temple grounds, looking up


It was very relaxing though, for free it's OK. To ask for an entrance fee is greedy and unfair.

The Wooden Pagoda Temple was built in early 557-588 A.D. of the Northern Zhou Dynasty. The pagoda is actually a nine-storey building with a height of 32.8 meters (107.6 feet). Very exciting stuff!!

The Wooden Pagoda


Where we are, heading north-west towards Xinjiang Province


Now I'm sick, the weather I think. Got a chest infection. Not serious and I've bought some medicine and feel much better. So I hope tomorrow, if all is well, we'll try and look at the mountains. If not, we'll just relax some more and wonder around the lovely town. The people are so friendly and the prices are local prices! Wonderful times.


MC